b'Early MorningMy intent is to get to the Ganges before sunrise to watch the spectacle of a typical day unfold. I move toward the river along the same windy roads as the night before. It feels like a different world. The streets appear deserted until forms come into focus in the darkness. They are the bodies of vendors sleeping on the asphalt beside their carts. A long way from home, they stay several days at a time in order to sell food and goods to travelers. Slowly the vendors emerge from the shadows and begin their morning routines. I watch a woman with a small child clinging to her start a fire to boil a pot of water for tea. From another pot, she pours water in her hand and splashes her face, then the face of the child, who squirms at the shock of it. Some of the scenes are unimaginable to me. There are vendors selling everything from candy to bike parts. I pass by beggars so thin their bones press through their skin. Cripples crawl along the ground pleading for money. Dogs and cows mingle among all sorts of vehicles and people, nobody bothers to pick up their feces. The lack of sanitation is not just unpleasant, it poses a threat to public health.34'